South America April 2009

 

Don’t cry for me Argentina!

 

 By Dr Philip Ranger

 

It was to be my most adventurous holiday yet – South America!  There are some places that you might not want to go on your own and a long journey such as this to such unusual places was perhaps one of them, therefore I decided to book  with Cruise and Dance which is run by top professionals Warren and Jane Bullock. 

 

Warren and Jane make it all happen so easily and really have a slick package taking all of the stress and uncertainty out of any situation – they really have it off to a ‘T’.  Our journey didn’t get the best start, a short delay at the airport and then off to Santiago in Chile via Madrid.  It was at Santiago airport that we found our luggage had been left in Madrid.  Worrying to say the least when going on a cruise but as usual, Warren sorted it out and it duly arrived in our cabin on the ship next day.   Our coach journey from Santiago to Valparaiso through vineyards and mountainous landscapes soon opened up to the port where our stunning ship lay waiting at the foot of a hillside decked in colourful myriad of pretty hillside neighbourhoods , the perfect place to embark on our exciting  cruise.

 

After exploring the ship and of course , checking out the dance floor as dancers do, we met for our cocktail party and get together to eagerly hear what Warren and Jane had planned for our cruise.  Fantastic sightseeing excursions, private dinner party’s  and Tango shows and of course their wonderful workshops.  Warren’s technique is to liken a move to a possible activity so we ‘spanked the donkey’, took the temperature of a Yorkshire Terrier, and moved our pelvis’s like Lynford Cristie does over hurdles in cycling shorts!  It was all so hilarious and so very memorable which of course, was the idea  - clever chappie that he is!  Apart from great technique tips we learns so many lovely routines in the various Ballroom and Latin dances but I personally really loved the Argentine Tango they taught us.

 

First port of call was Puerto Montt in Chile which is famed for its Volcanoes and stunning waterfalls but we weren’t fortunate with the weather which was misty and wet.   After trecking to waterfalls and a tour around the fish market, our cosy and warm ship was a welcome retreat.

 

Next was scenic cruising around the picturesque Chilean Fjords - truly a wonder of the world.  Great sheets of ice carving off the glaciers as our ship glided silently towards them is a memory that wont be forgotten.  The reflection of the mountains on the still waters creating a double reflection was really beautiful.   

 

Punta Arenas in Chile was barren and untouched.   We travelled some distance over flat terrains of pasture land and heathers so a wildlife sanctuary.  However, it wasn’t as we had envisaged – 3 penguins in a paddling pool, two Lama’s that oblidgingly spat at us and an Ostrich!  So much for ‘doing your own thing’ but we giggled and made a fun day out of it.

 

The port of Ushuaia in Argentina is the Southern most city in the world and is the last stop before Antartica and is from where the exploration vessels depart.   Snow capped mountains and lush subartartic green lowlands make for beautiful photos.  Here was where we met sea lions, seals and penguins galore where we got up close and personal in their natural habitat.  A really special day.  

Cape Horn in Chile is famed for its rough seas and often difficult conditions but as we rounded the Cape the sun shone on our beautiful ship Radiance of the Seas which  seemed perfectly named as we sailed calmly past mountains and craggy rocks.     

 

Puerto Madryn in Argentina was where we took an excursion deep into Argentina where we were to find the only Welsh colony of settles in South America.  In this  charming little town even the locals still speak Welsh and was where we were treated to an authentic Welsh tea while be accompanied by the local Welsh choir.   The colourful trees and canals reminded me of New England in Canada.

 

Our stop at Punta del Este in Uruguay was different and refreshing.  A quaint holiday resort with lovely beaches and charming cafes and markets.

 

Montevideo in Uraguay proved to be a beautiful city steeped in history and enchanting architecture with a myriad of statues and monuments.  It had a feel of the 1950’s that was unique and captivating.

 

Buenos Aires in Argentina more than matched our expectations and was to be the highlight of our cruise.  Warren and Jane had arranged a fantastic city tour for us which not only showed us the architectural highlights of this amazing city but took us to the amazing and breathtaking cemetery where the iconic Eva Peron lies buried.   Next, we were to stop at the cobbled streets and charming cafes that Buenes Aires is famous for.  Tango dancers were on every street corner – they really do dance in the streets!   The hustle and bustle and  music and dancing of this magical place was an addictive drug that begged you to stay.   Later that evening, once again, Warren and Jane had arranged a trip to the famous Carlos Gardell Salon – an authentic Salon with a typical high class 3 course dinner followed by a live show of the most amazing Argentine Tango dancers you could ever see.  A truly fantastic night that will stay in everyones memories for ever.

 

I would personally like to publicly thank Warren and Jane for what was truly the holiday of a lifetime.  We were looked after ever step of the way, saw and did things that I feel privileged to have seen and enjoyed dancing and teaching of the very highest level.  A truly outstanding holiday but it was Warren and Jane’s warm and magical personalities that were the icing on the cake for us.  If we heard Don’t Cry for me Argentina once, we heard it a hundred times but I’ll never tire of it now as it brings back so many wonderful memories. 

 

Costa Serena August 2007

An Onslaught to the Senses!

By Lesley Smythe

A Cruise – the Oxford English Dictionary definition is ‘a voyage on a ship taken as a holiday and usually calling in at several places.’  Having recently returned from a week on the Costa Serena Italian Ancient Treasures cruise organised by Warren Bullock and Jane Phillips, I’m tempted to suggest a change in the OED’s wording to something more like “an onslaught to the senses which will redefine your interpretation of a luxurious and fun-filled holiday.”

My only previous cruising experience had been as a child way back in 1978 on the P&O Ship Canberra in the days when cruising was a somewhat elitist experience.  That said, the holiday had lived in my mind for almost 30 years as being one of my best ever and I had yearned to try another ever since, so when the opportunity arose to join one of Warren & Jane’s now famous Dance and Cruise holidays, I didn’t hesitate.  My parents, George and Carole Smythe, had made the decision to book a cabin and the lure of the brand new Costa Serena and the varied itinerary of destinations soon took hold and so I also booked to join Warren & Jane’s party.

So, in the last week of August after the worst British summer on record, my daughter Gemma and I were even keener for our holiday to begin.  We eagerly checked in and Gemma made a friend almost immediately in the check-in queue, Bailey Hemphill – sister of the now well known Morgan, accompanied by her parents, all three of whom were first time cruisers.

We eventually arrived at our cruise departure destination of Venice and were impressed by the ease of transfer from the airport to the port, organised as part of the holiday.  As the coach turned into the port, there was an audible gasp from its passengers when the Costa Serena came into view.  At over 112,000 tons, the Serena is the latest and largest ship to join this Italian cruise line’s fleet.  With a maximum passenger capacity of around 3700, it would have to have facilities to accommodate and entertain and it certainly did not disappoint.  Our embarkation was expeditious and trouble free and both Gemma and I were speechless as we entered the ship for the first time, straight into the grand Atrium with its glass lifts reaching up 11 decks, the walls adorned with life-size Venetian figures and an opulent staircase winding from the piano bar to the decks above

We made our way to our cabin which was well equipped, spacious, spotlessly clean and bright.  Whilst we awaited the automatic transfer of our luggage to the cabin, Gemma and I made our way to the buffet on deck 9 where we were overwhelmed by the wonderful food on offer for lunch.  Whilst we ate, we gradually started to absorb our new surroundings; our vista included one of the pools, an entertainment area with a huge cinema screen, another deck up we could see the children’s pool and slide.  The sheer choice of food onboard was amazing and the quality was exceptional.  Being an Italian ship, the freshly made pasta and pizzas were incomparable to anything you can buy in the UK and even my “I don’t eat foreign food” dad enjoyed sampling the varied Mediterranean cuisine.

A few days before departure I had joked to a friend that I would be thinking of her as I sipped a cocktail on the deck of the ship as it sailed out of Venice.  At 6pm on Sunday 26th August, that was exactly what I was doing!  Venice at ground level is stunning enough, but from deck 11 of this exceptionally large ship, I felt as though I was amongst the gods, looking down at one of their divine creations.  The warm evening sun bathed Venice in golden light, highlighting its ancient architectural masterpieces and despite the excitement of the crowds on deck, I was lost in awe as we sailed by the beautiful St. Marks Square.  We were escorted by a paraphernalia of aquatic transport - speedboats, dinghies, water taxis, private yachts and even jet skis, not forgetting the famous gondolas with their eager customers.  The whole of Venice seemed to join our anticipation of what was to come and waved keenly as we passed.

Tearing ourselves away from the views, we made our way to one of the two main restaurants, the Vesta, for our first dinner offering.  Warren and Jane’s party was conveniently seated in a corner of this vast and opulent room, offering stunning views out to sea.  We were almost bewildered by the choice of fare on offer, being at least four dishes in each of the seven courses from which we had to choose.  But we rose to the challenge!

Dinner was followed on the first evening by Warren & Jane’s private ‘Welcome Cocktail’ party, held in the beautiful Salon Cupido where, you guessed it, the theme was romance.  The décor throughout the ship was faultless and not a detail had been missed in its design, especially in the themed bars such as the one where we went to meet the other participants of the Cruise & Dance party.  Anyone who knows Warren Bullock today, or as in my case, since the year dot, will know that he’s a born comedian and it was with his usual warmth and conviviality that he introduced himself to us all.  He proceeded to tell us a few of his experiences about cruising in general, his recommendations for excursions and how the dance classes would fit in to the itinerary.  

The party was varied in age and experience, ranging from professional dancers to complete beginners; from 10-year-olds to a couple celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary but all linked with a common love (or at least interest in) dance.

 

The Teatro Giove Theatre was a masterpiece of design where from every angle the spectators had wonderful views of the magnificent stage area on which any performer would have surely been thrilled to appear.  The first artist we saw on the Monday evening was the most wonderful vocalist, the beautiful Keeniata from South Africa whose voice captivated, enthralled and stunned the audience into spontaneous ovations at the end of almost every fantastic high energy song.  What a way to start!  No doubt cleverly scheduled by the ship’s directors to ensure a full house every night, but what followed for the remainder of the week did not disappoint.  We saw cabaret acts of the highest quality, ranging from Broadway style dance shows to a virtuoso ventriloquist whose talent was unique.

The Grand Bar was where the party started every evening after dinner and wow, do the Italians know how to have fun!  I haven’t played so many games since I was my daughter’s age but their enthusiasm is so infectious, it would have been churlish not to participate.

My daughter’s favourite bar was of course ‘The Chocolate Bar’ with wondrous chocolate feasts to be discovered and experienced.  Resistance was futile!  A chocolate fountain has now made its way onto her birthday list…

As for the other leisure facilities, they included three pools, a beauty salon offering top range treatments, a state-of-the-art gymnasium (funnily enough my only experience of this was to capture it on camcorder for my husband); the children’s Squok club offering an array of exciting activities for all ages, a teen zone, deck games and craft activities.  The list is exhaustive and meticulous detail had gone into planning every day for all passengers, aided by the ‘Today’ programme left in our cabin each evening.

The restaurants hosted their own highlights, with two gala dinners and an Italian evening where we all joined in the waiters’ entertainment of dancing, singing, napkin waving and doing the conga around the restaurant.  This was definitely not the Queen Mary but what an enjoyable time we had – even my hen night was quiet by comparison!  Another evening saw them hosting a midnight buffet where we were invited to view their stunning ice sculptures and food carvings, the craftsmanship for which had to be seen to be believed.

The first destination was Bari in Southern Italy.  This lovely university town was built on a peninsular between two modern ports.  An easy open top bus tour was just easy and relaxing and gave us some great snap shots.

Tuesday’s destination port was the island of Mykonos.  We arrived into a wind-swept Mykonos at approximately 4pm and our approach meant that we had the perfect view of the town.  It was exactly as a Greek island should be – whitewashed cottages adorning the hillside and overlooking a traditional fishing port.   Mykonos is a maize of cobbled streets with shop after shop of Grecian treasures and souvenirs, interspersed by tavernas emitting wonderful aromas and ambiance.  My sense of direction being what it is meant for an interesting walk around the town but what a warm, balmy and wonderful evening we had.  Definitely a ‘must see’ again!

On Wednesday morning we found ourselves answering an early alarm call, as we had booked an organised excursion to the ancient Turkish site known as Ephesus.  I was beginning to get used to the ‘new day, new country’ feeling that you only get with cruising and despite our early start, we were enthusiastic about the day ahead.  Ephesus is a magnificent  archaeological site lying 3 km south of Izmir. The ruins of Ephesus really are awesome and are the favorite international and local tourist attractions. A tiring and hot day but really worth it.

By the next morning we had travelled further up the west side the Turkish coast and arrived at the ancient port of Istanbul.  Having breakfast overlooking the port was fascinating and I found myself mesmerized by the comings and goings of this vibrant city that spans two continents.  It was possible to hear the sounds of the early morning rush and its hypnotic qualities reached for me and drew me towards it.  We had not made plans for an organised excursion and so took one of the many taxis waiting at the dock.  We disembarked and took a rather exciting taxi ride with Nigel Mansell (well, it could’ve been) into the heart of this dynamic city.  After making a quick stop at the historic Blue Mosque to take some photos, our driver took us on to the entrance to the Grand Bazaar.

 

This is one of the largest covered markets in the world with more than 58 streets and 4,000 shops, and has between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily (I can vouch for that).   It is well known for its jewellery, pottery, spice, and carpet shops. Many of the stalls in the bazaar are grouped by type of goods, with special areas for leather coats, gold jewellery and the like.  I just loved every minute of this shopping experience.  Yes, I’m female and there were all those shops, but it wasn’t that; it was the onslaught to the senses of all that you would call exotic.  Everything felt ‘foreign’ in the wonderful way that told you this just wasn’t Blackpool.  If Mykonos had been a maize, then the Grand Bazaar was a Grand Maize but it was a joy to lose yourself in this labyrinth of colours, aromas and sounds.  It felt as though all of life was here and it was bliss.   Mum made the mistake of going into a leather shop and after about 40 minutes and several Euros later, she emerged with a smile and a new handbag but I pride myself of being the saviour of 85 of her Euros so I’m now known as Del-girl Trotter.

Friday was a day at sea which meant another chance to enjoy the company of our new friends and all that this floating palace had to offer.  The younger members of the party spent most of the day in the pool; Warren’s usual mischievous streak emerged with a game of “first one to remove Katie’s bikini top gets a prize”.  The children rose to the occasion and poor Katie Walton was a true sport and managed to maintain her modesty if not her swimwear.  When the tables were turned on Warren, he was suddenly noticeable by his absence…..

Saturday’s arrival in Dubrovnik again provided a new experience with a trip on the tender boats to and from the port.  This is another beautiful and historic city enveloped by a wall which houses its architectural delights.  Having suffered enormously in recent times during the Baltic war, it has been fully restored to its former glory and it is truly stunning.  Each turn greeted you with another awe-inspiring building and the haunting museum dedicated to those who died in the 90s war was definitely worth a visit.

 

Before I conclude this journey with an account of our final day in Venice, I mustn’t forget to talk about one major aspect of this holiday – the dancing.  Warren and Jane have been organizing these cruise and dance holidays for 10 years now and their vast experience certainly shows.  It’s no surprise at all to learn that they have been voted been voted 'Top Teachers of the Year' for the last 6 years and 'Supreme Teachers of the Year' for the last 3 years.  Their effortless enthusiasm and naturally witty personalities ensured that everyone was instantly at ease in the classes, developing their skills and making new friends.

Warren had split the group into two – the Grecians who required social routines and the Venetians who were the more experienced dancers.  Ably assisted by the lovely Shirley Johnson, (and a little by Carole Smythe and even myself on occasion too) each of the 5 evening sessions was hilarious fun whilst being a really useful way for the dancers to learn some new figures. 

We were granted the use of the private ballroom in the Luna bar, yet another beautifully themed room that was spacious and luxuriously appointed.  Every evening the couples had a chance to practise what they had learnt earlier as the Serena’s entertainment facilities always included lots of dancing opportunities; the result of the Italians being very keen social dancers.  As I said, they know how to party! 

And so to the final day of our cruise.  The well organised disembarkation process meant that we were able to spend some time in Venice, ‘the Queen of the Adriatic’.  Its reputation as one of the most beautiful cities in the world had not been over-exaggerated and with eager anticipation we took the Water Taxi from the port to St Mark’s Square.  Yes, there were crowds and yes, it was hot, humid and full of pigeons.  But nothing can prepare you for the magic that is created by this wondrous place.  Sadly, our time was limited, but the taster we had of this car-free city made us yearn for more and a return journey is definitely on the agenda.  Wandering through the myriad of streets, over the bridges, into the spectacular mask emporiums, tasting the pizza, watching the gondolas meander through its canals – I could go on and on.  If you only visit one Italian city in your lifetime, then it has to be Venice.

Thank you, Warren, Jane, your lovely girls and all our new friends for making such a special holiday a completely unforgettable one. The really friendly atmosphere within the group made it extra special.  Cruising is not only a journey to different destinations, it is a journey for the senses and for the mind; a new panorama every time you look to the horizon.  I certainly won’t be waiting 30 years for my next cruise and neither should you.